When we first visited St. Maarten in 1997, all cruise ships anchored in Philipsburg and ferried their guests ashore. A couple of years ago the island opened a dedicated cruise pier, capable of handling up to 4 large cruise ships simultaneously. 

Philipsburg's location is rather special, with an expanse of soft sand lapped by the azure Caribbean Sea just steps from the main shopping street. Lining the main street are hotels, casinos and lots of souvenir shops. It's loud, it's brash, it's Philipsburg!

Governed by the Netherlands and France, St. Maarten (or St. Martin as the French say) is one of the smallest bodies of land that boasts dual partnership. The island is ideal to discover by rental car. Rental companies have their offices at the cruise ship pier, rates are relatively low and in contrast to some other Caribbean islands one drives on the right hand side of the road. Bring enough sunscreen and a good map and off you go!

First stop is the capital of the French side of the island, Marigot. Where Philipsburg is noisy, crowded and touristy, Marigot has managed to stay very French. Stop by any of the streetwalk cafes and order a "café au lait" with a "pain au chocolat". So French! So delicious!

The Dutch flag proudly flies at Philipsburg's cruise ship dock. Measuring only 34 sq km (13.1 sq m), the Dutch side of the island largely relies on tourism and welcomes the "Ship Parades" with open arms.

Driving around the island, you will soon discover that this is not your average lush, tropical hideaway. Most of St. Maarten has a rather arid look and vegetation can be rather sparse in places, especially in summer. Still, the many remote bays and beaches show that there is more to the island than Philipsburg's duty-free circus.

Mention "Orient Beach" on board your cruise ship and chances are some people will start giggling. Orient Beach is located on the French side of the island and is (in)famous for its "clothing optional" policy. Oh la la! Being Europeans and used to the odd uncovered body part,  we ventured to Orient Beach and counted 1 (one) wrinkled, tanned senior proudly bearing it all. So much for the hype! More importantly, we had a terrific time on this beach and would recommend it to everyone. In true French style, beach clubs offer everything from lounge chairs, shower facilities and high-quality food outlets. Take a taxi from Philipsburg or rent a car and drive there yourself. You might have a hard time leaving Orient Beach!