|
|
|
The island of Sicily was already inhabited in prehistoric
ages, but its claim to fame lies in the fact that it has changed hands so many
times, leaving behind layer upon layer of cultural influences. The Greek came
first, turning Syracuse into the most important city of Sicily in 480 BC. But
already there was a strong nationalist movement making life tough for the Greek
rulers. In the first Punic War (264 - 241 BC), the western part of Sicily was
conquered by the Romans. Sicily quickly welcomed a lot of Roman immigrants,
buying large manors and turning the island into fertile farmland,
producing crops for the whole of Italy. Unrest among the original people of
Sicily led to the fall of the Roman ruling, making way for the Vandals,
Byzantines and Arabs. In 1860
Sicily officially became a part of the Kingdom of Italy.
|
|
|
|
|
At 10 am on Monday morning, Royal
Clipper anchors off the town of Mazara del Vallo, the largest fishing port of
Sicily located in the northwest of the island. By coach we set off from the dock,
driving along the crystal clear waters of the Mediterranean. The relative
closeness of North Africa (we spot the Tunesian coast on the horizon) explains
the stark, closed-in look of this part of Sicily. The further northeast we
drive, the more lush the countryside, with mile after mile of glorious pink
oleander bordering the highway. After a 90 minute drive, we arrive in Segeste
where the Greeks built a remarkable temple between 424 and 409 BC. To this day,
2400 years later, the remains of the temple (that was never finished) remains perched on the
hillside in the stunningly beautiful countryside. We enjoy a typical Sicilian
lunch in a restaurant nearby before setting off to Erice, an ancient fortified
town perched high on a rock near the city of Trapani. After the rolling
countryside at Segeste, the change to the barren mountaintop town of Erice could
not be more impressive. The wind blows through the deserted stone streets, where
every corner is more photogenic than the last. |
|
|
|
|
What a treat it is to be able to visit
Syracuse, the city that has been so vital in the rise and fall of Sicily through
the ages. Royal Clipper docks on a cloudless Wednesday morning and we can't wait
for the ship to be cleared by local authorities after seeing the old Medieval
city glide by as we sail into the wide bay. With 127,500 inhabitants, Syracuse
is a thriving city, complete with lots of scooters and noisy cars. While most
important excavation sites (a huge amphitheater, ruins of Doric temples, bath
houses and aqueducts) are found on the mainland, we decide to cross the bridge
instead to the oldest part of town, called Ortygia. We are not sorry, as
strolling around Ortygia is like a exciting whirlwind ride in a time machine.
|
|
|
|
|
The old part of town is like a maze of
immaculately clean alleys with wrought-iron balconies, lots of flowers and
pretty lanterns. It doesn't matter that we are completely lost; we love it here!
One of the highlights is the grand Piazzo Duomo, with its 7th century cathedral
on one side and a row of 17th century palazzos on the other, now conveniently
turned into alfresco restaurants. The cathedral is a must-see, having been
constructed using the remains of a Doric temple dating back from the 5th century
BC. Inside, there are many more treasures to be discovered. And while the hymns of
group of tourists echo in the tall, cool building, we continue our voyage
through time, ending up at a wonderful restaurant overlooking the sea. Here, we
much away on a delicious local lunch of bruschetta, veal in lemon sauce and
pasta with tuna and peppers, meanwhile enjoying every minute of the restaurant's
very Italian atmosphere. Some scoops of Sicilian ice cream later and we are on
our way to the ship again.
|
|
|
|
|
That evening at 6 pm, the sails are
out as Royal Clipper leaves Syracuse. While the Vangelis sailaway theme
thunders across the decks, boats in all shapes and sizes accompany us out to
sea. There, a school of dolphins take over, frolicking in the warm waters of the
Mediterranean.
Our final goodbye to Sicily comes in a most unexpected form as a couple of
helicopters, planes and a navy frigate appear on the horizon to salute our beautiful
Royal Clipper. As
the sun starts setting in the glass-like waters, we order another drink in the
Tropical Bar and gaze towards the land that we want to visit again. And again.
|
|
|
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)
)