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Visions of castle, knights and damsels in distress come to
mind as we approach Valletta's Grand Harbor under full sail on a stifling hot
Tuesday afternoon. The Republic of Malta, consisting of the islands of Malta,
Gozo and Comino (plus two uninhabited islands), has changed hands many, many
times over the years. Romans, Arabs, the Knights of St. John, Napoleon Bonaparte
and later the British have all laid claim to this barren, rocky outpost in the
deep south of the Mediterranean. The Brits came to the islands in 1814, turning
Malta into a Crown Colony and making full use of Valletta's huge natural port as a vital
link for ships on the route from Britain to India via the Suez Canal. Malta
still retains its British influences and most inhabitants speak English
fluently, yet the official language is an intriguing mix of Arab and Sicilian
influences and the currency is the Maltese Lira.
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When Lucy and I get out on deck in the
morning, Royal Clipper is cruising off Gozo's north shore. Under a bright blue
sky, our Captain steers the huge clipper towards the island's main port of Mgarr.
We drop anchor here and the water sports team bring out the zodiacs
to transport passengers to the Blue Grotto on nearby Comino. As our time in Gozo is
extremely limited, we opt to take the tender into town, where a short walk
uphill sees us admiring the views from the Church of Our Lady of Lourdes.
Dominating the view of the center of the island are the sandstone churches of
Victoria, the capital of the island. Too bad we don't have time to go there; we
will have to come back another time! |
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While crew members set up a fabulous lunch buffet in the Tropical Bar, the anchor is hoisted and
Royal Clipper sets sail for Valletta on the island of Malta. The
three-hour sail under cloudless skies is very pleasant and we fully enjoy the
casual, upbeat lunchtime atmosphere and the consequent "siesta" under canvas. Lucy and I head for the bow of the ship and watch the crew prepare for our arrival in Valletta. Upon entering the fortified port, all sails
are unfurled and under the tones of Vangelis' "Conquest of Paradise", we
majestically enter the Grand Harbour. To port side, within the old
fortifications, the movie set for "Troy" (starring Brad Pitt) can clearly be seen
and later in the day a fellow passenger runs into Sharon Stone who is shooting
her new movie in downtown Valletta. Malta goes Hollywood! |
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By 3 pm, Royal Clipper is safely
docked right in the center of town. Lucy and I conquer the stifling heat and
climb up to the main shopping street, which is amass with people. As all prices
are shown in Maltese Lira here, we make good use of the many ATM machines and
make our way to the Cathedral of St. John. This rather unassuming looking
cathedral was built in the 16th century by Gerolama Cassar and was largely
cleared of its priceless art objects by Napoleon. Fortunately, Napoleon was not
able to take the beautiful ceiling paintings by Mattia Preti, painted in such a
way that they appear to be 3-dimensional. We spend a couple of hours strolling
around Valletta, one of Europe's smallest capital cities. What strikes us most
is the original feel to the place. We see no towering office blocks here, no
concrete. Instead, all buildings are done in sandstone and many feature the typical green
glass-enclosed balconies. |
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Back on board, we position ourselves
at the railing in the Tropical Bar, seeing groups of smartly dressed dignitaries
get on the ship. This is Royal Clipper's maiden call at Valletta and the
officers have invited a number of guests for a cocktail party. Alas, Brad Pitt
and Sharon Stone do not appear, even though persistent rumors on board said they
would! Instead, we have our own piece of movie magic as Royal Clipper slowly
slips her berth at 11.30 pm. Her masts decked in lights, she quietly passes the
city of Valletta on her way out to sea. Most passengers join the crew out on
deck to witness this spectacular sailaway after a wonderful day of Island
Hopping in Malta.
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